Life in a Transylvanian Hollow

Interior of a 15th century church, Muzeul Civilzatiei Populare Traditrionale

After several hours exploring the Muzeul Civilizatiei Populare Traditrionale (an outdoor museum of traditional Romanian architecture), we headed out to the village of Densus where Paula's family is from. Her father, Pauline now lives in the house her grandfather built, and he is basically the handyman of the community, always running out to help somebody with something. When we arrived, the first thing Pauline did was to treat me to a taste of his homemade tuica, a plum brandy that is commonly made in the countryside, sort of like moonshine, but sweeter and not quite so strong.

True country hospitality - Pauline serves up his tuica

After we enjoyed our taste of tuica, it was time to head into the village take care of one of Pauline's most important jobs  - ringing the church bells to let people know about the Sunday service that would take place the next day. He invited us to join him, as the church is the oldest active stone church in Romanian, built up from stones of a pagan Roman site into an Orthodox temple sometime in the 1300s. You can still see original pillars and stones from the Roman times.

The oldest active stone church in Romania, estab. circa 1300

One of the stone pillars from the original Roman temple

Off the beaten path is where I feel most at home, and I immediately fell in love with this place in SW Transylvania.

The village of Densus - a little piece of heaven

If it weren't for such old buildings like the church, I would have almost thought I was back home in a place that is a cross between western Oregon and Appalachia. The village is in a depression sort of like a very big cove - a wide prairie encircled entirely by mountains. On three sides there are rolling green hills that remind me of Appalachia, but on the south side are the majestic snow covered Carpathian peaks that look very much like the Cascades.


Pauline and his girlfriend Felicia have a nice life here in Densus, and I was so happy to find myself in this little village, in the company of such good people, being treated to homemade tuica and enjoying a full moon sitting out in the yard in the company of two very sweet dogs - Lady and Rex.

My new buddies - Lady & Rex

Home sweet home in Densus

The next morning we headed out into the area of mountains where there used to be a lot of coal mining and visited the Sunday flea market in the town of Petrosani. I found myself some little treasures and felt even more how similar and parallel so many places really are.

Sunday flea market in Petrosani

In the evening, we headed two villages down from Densus and walked up to where Eli and Paula bought a farmhouse that they plan to fix up.

Walking up the hollow to explore Eli and Paula's place

Their place truly won my heart, a little Romanian hollow so much like Judy Branch and other pieces of heaven back home in Appalachia. Walking along the little creek to the head of the hollow, the hills rise up on all sides to nestle the old homestead in among cherry, plum and pear trees. There's a lot of work to be done, but I can see my friends making this into their own little paradise.




As we strolled around the hollow, the setting sun cast a sparkling glaze over everything, and I felt a familiar feeling that I would often feel once I made it home to Judy Branch. A feeling of total contentment of being just where I am. This is a special place, and I certainly hope and plan to return again and again.

Eli and Pauline's homestead at the head of the hollow